October 2025

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How to look afterNimbochromis venustus

Giraffe Cichlid, Giraffe Haplochromis

(Other members of the genus Nimbochromis)

ADULT SIZE: 25 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Moderately hard and alkaline

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 23-28 C

FOOD: Feed Nimbochromis venustus live foods and small fish

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Lake Malawi

AQUARIUM CARE: Nimbochromis venustus is an ambush predator living deep at the bottom of Lake Malawi, feeding on other smaller fish species. It hides in the sand, striking when prey is in reach. The name Giraffe Hap refers to their yellowish colouration with brown patches – just like a giraffe. Adult males are very attractive having a yellower body and bright blue face; this species is quite common in the aquarium trade. This can be an aggressive fish, and is best kept in a dedicated lake Malawi set-up.

More about setting up a typical Malawi cichlid tank here.

Have you bred Nimbochromis venustus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Nimbochromis venustus breeding reports

A younger Nimbochromis venustus without it’s full adult colouration. The yellowish background and darker brown patches are what gives this fish its common name Giraffe cichlid

BREEDING:

Have you bred Nimbochromis venustus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

Sorry no records.

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Low light plants Java moss, Java fern, and several of the Anubias species all do fine in low-light conditions. That is not to say that they do not thrive with stronger lighting, but in an aquarium with a lot of floating plants, or one with timid fish that prefer a dimmer tank, these plants are very useful indeed. All are epiphytes; that is to say they need not be planted, and can be attached to stones, bogwood or just left free floating

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How to look afterAstronotus ocellatus

Oscar, Velvet cichlid

(Agassiz, 1831)

(Other members of the genus Astronotus)

ADULT SIZE: 35 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Not critical

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 25-30 C

FOOD: Feed Astronotus ocellatus live and dried foods

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Brazil, Peru

AQUARIUM CARE: The Oscar is an aquarium favourite, being much more ‘pet like’ in its behaviour, it is a firm favourite with many aquarists. They are a large, long-lived species, and need to be well cared for if they are to thrive. They spend much of their time resting and playing, though they will ‘strike’ when feeding. They particularly relish nutricious livefoods; earthworms, prawn, fish etc. A good feeding readily triggers spawning.

BREEDING: Eggs are typically laid on a cleaned surface. A piece of slate is ideal, though they will dig a pit in the gravel if not provided with a suitable substrate. The eggs are fanned by both parents, and the the young grow quickly; like their parents they can eat endlessly.

Have you bred Astronotus ocellatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Astronotus ocellatus breeding reports

There are several man-made varieties of oscar. This is the albino.

Albino oscar

BREEDING: Eggs are typically laid on a cleaned surface. A piece of slate is ideal, though they will dig a pit in the gravel if not provided with a suitable substrate. The eggs are fanned by both parents, and the the young grow quickly; like their parents they can eat endlessly.

Have you bred Astronotus ocellatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

This page summarises breeding reports provided by visitors to this site, along with some statistical analysis. Please feel free to contribute – whatever your experience! 2 breeders have filled in breeding reports, a summary of the results are shown in the graphs below. You can read the full reports here. To add details of your experiences of Astronotus ocellatus, why not fill in a Breeding and maintenance Report.

Remember, each record represents only one persons experience; if you had different results, or used different methods, please share your experiences

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How to look afterSymphysodon aequifasciatus

Discus

Pellegrin, 1904

(Other members of the genus Symphysodon)

ADULT SIZE: 22 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Moderately soft and acidic

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 26-30 C

FOOD: Feed Symphysodon aequifasciatus live and dried foods

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Brazil

AQUARIUM CARE: There are both wild, and commercially bred forms of discus. Colors and patterns are numerous; most are very attractive. They are a shy fish that prefers shoals of smaller dither fish, tetras (especially cardinal, and rummy-nosed tetra) and pencil fish as tankmates. Do not keep with other cichlids! They are also susceptible to paracitic infections. Water quality is important when keeping discus. See the section on Amazon biotope aquariums

BREEDING: A pair will spawn on a pre-cleaned leaf or rock.

Have you bred Symphysodon aequifasciatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Symphysodon aequifasciatus breeding reports

The brown Discus

The discus is a truly beautiful fish, and an all time aquarium favourite

The tangerine Discus. These Discus have been selectively bred for their bright orange colouration as the name suggests

Blue Diamond Discus are another cultivar, and a very attractive and popular one too

BREEDING: A pair will spawn on a pre-cleaned leaf or rock.

Have you bred Symphysodon aequifasciatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

This page summarises breeding reports provided by visitors to this site, along with some statistical analysis. Please feel free to contribute – whatever your experience! 2 breeders have filled in breeding reports, a summary of the results are shown in the graphs below. You can read the full reports here. To add details of your experiences of Symphysodon aequifasciatus, why not fill in a Breeding and maintenance Report.

Remember, each record represents only one persons experience; if you had different results, or used different methods, please share your experiences

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How to look afterLasiancistrus tentaculatus

Woodeating Lasiancistrus

Armbruster, 2005

(Other members of the genus Lasiancistrus)

ADULT SIZE: 15 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Moderately soft and acidic

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 23-27 C

FOOD: Feed Lasiancistrus tentaculatus primarily a wood eater. Some vegetables and dry foods, spirulina flakes, algae wafers etc will also be accepted, but not as a long term substitute for wood.

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Colombia, Venezuela

AQUARIUM CARE: The Woodeating Lasiancistrus, comes primarily from the drainage areas of Lake Valencia and the Orinoco River in Venezuela and into Colombia; a typical Amazon style set up would be perfect with lots of sunken driftwood on which this species will graze. Other fine grade frozen, dry and live foods will be accepted by this species, but wood is essential. Male fish can be distinguished from females in that they tend to have more profuse bristling (odontodes) around the gills and snout, and somewhat longer pectoral fins.

A very peaceful species that would thrive in most community situations, especially with other catfish of the genera Panaque, Falowella, Otocinclus, and Corydoras, with which it naturally occurs.

Have you bred Lasiancistrus tentaculatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Lasiancistrus tentaculatus breeding reports

Lasiancistrus tentaculatus, L092, feeds by rasping on driftwood

BREEDING:

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Sorry no records.

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How to look afterCorydoras julii

Leopard Cory

Steindachner, 1906 Corydoras julii
more images here

(Other members of the genus Corydoras)

ADULT SIZE: 5 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Not critical

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 22-26 C

FOOD: Feed Corydoras julii small live-foods and fine grade dried foods

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Brazil

AQUARIUM CARE: This species can be kept in much the same way as other Corydoras; it likes some plants, a sanding bottom, and a varied diet of live, prepared and green foods. Keep them in a shoal of at least six individuals.

Have you bred Corydoras julii? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Corydoras julii breeding reports

Corydoras julii

BREEDING:

Have you bred Corydoras julii? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

Sorry no records.

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How to look afterParacheirodon innesi

Neon tetra

(Myers, 1936)

(Other members of the genus Paracheirodon)

ADULT SIZE: 4 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Moderately soft and acidic

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 23-27 C

FOOD: Feed Paracheirodon innesi small live-foods and fine grade dried foods. Although not fussy eaters, live foods are relished by this species.

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Peru

AQUARIUM CARE: This is probably the most immediately recognisable aquarium fish. And with good reason; neon tetras are stunning looking fish, especially in a large shoal in a planted tank. They are very easy to keep, and breeding, though tricky is possible. The use of soft water is best, and although they are often seen in harder water mixed community tanks, certainly do better in a large group in softer water with more peaceful tankmates.

Neon tetras look their best (and are generally happiest) in a dark planted tank with driftwood, and plenty of floating and non floating vegetation, simulating the Upper Amazon jungle pools fron which it hails. Read more about Amazon biotope aquariums here.

BREEDING: Soft acidic water is necessary. This is a typical egg scatterer and so spawning over marbles is appropriate. Good conditioning is required to bring this species to spawning condition, but this is easily achieved with livefoods such as worms, artemia and daphnia.

Have you bred Paracheirodon innesi? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Paracheirodon innesi breeding reports

The neon tetra is probably the most instantly recognisable aquarium species

BREEDING: Soft acidic water is necessary. This is a typical egg scatterer and so spawning over marbles is appropriate. Good conditioning is required to bring this species to spawning condition, but this is easily achieved with livefoods such as worms, artemia and daphnia.

Have you bred Paracheirodon innesi? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

Sorry no records.

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How to look afterPelvicachromis taeniatus
(Boulenger, 1901)

(Other members of the genus Pelvicachromis)

ADULT SIZE: 9 cm

WATER CONDITIONS: Not critical

TEMPERATURE RANGE: 25-29 C

FOOD: Feed Pelvicachromis taeniatus live and dried foods

DISTRIBUTION: This species comes from Cameroon, Nigeria

AQUARIUM CARE: Enjoys a well planted tank with thickets and bogwood.

BREEDING: Cavity brooder. young are cared for by both parents.

Have you bred Pelvicachromis taeniatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?, or examine existing Pelvicachromis taeniatus breeding reports

A Pelvicachromis taeniatus from Lalonge

A Pelvicachromis taeniatus peeps out of its spawning cave

Nigerian red. The female of this species in breeding colouration. The red belly is used in courting displays; when it is at its reddest the female presents it to the male, shaking it vigourously

Pelvicachromis taeniatus female, from Lobe, Cameroon

A male from Lalonge

BREEDING: Cavity brooder. young are cared for by both parents.

Have you bred Pelvicachromis taeniatus? Why not fill in a breeding questionaire?

This page summarises breeding reports provided by visitors to this site, along with some statistical analysis. Please feel free to contribute – whatever your experience! 1 breeder has filled in a breeding report, a summary of which is shown in the graphs below. You can read the full reports here. To add details of your experiences of Pelvicachromis taeniatus, why not fill in a Breeding and maintenance Report.

Remember, each record represents only one persons experience; if you had different results, or used different methods, please share your experiences

A biotope aquarium contains fish species (and plant species if applicable) that correlate to a particular environment, somewhere in the world. It is often difficult to replicate biotopes exactly, as we are all limited to availability of plants, rock types etc, so occasionally substitutions have to be made.

It is not necessary to exactly replicate the biotopes inhabitants, in fact in many cases an ecosystem will contain fish that prey upon each other, as well as cloudy water, mud and a whole host of other undesirable things!

The most popular biotope tank is perhaps the Amazon floodplain, followed closely by the rock-filled tanks of Lake Malawi. Have a look at some of our examples and see if anything inspires you!

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The long term method of aquarium fish breeding is really just a way of sucessfully rearing a few fry in a regular maintenance tank. It is not at all difficult, and requires no special equipment; just a reasonably sized fish tank, with plenty of hiding places and regular feedings of food capable of feeding either adult fish or fry; generally newly hatched brine shrimp (artemia). The idea is to allow a pair, or small group of adult fish to lay eggs and either raise them themselves, or allow the fry to grow up without predation from adults or larger siblings, usually by hiding. The disadvantages to this technique is the length of time it can take to see results, and the relatively small yield of fry. The resultant offspring are, however, generally very strong and healthy individuals, very well adapted to the environment in which they were born.

For certain species, cichlids that exhibit parental care, and most livebearers, getting results with this methos will be very easy indeed. For others it can more problematic. Naturally, the lower stocking density of the tank the better; a tank heaving with fish offers few hiding places and a lot of competition for food.

The first issue occurs as soon as the eggs are laid.

Egg Eating

Many fish species will search for eggs, and some species will even watch their tank mates spawn, and move in to feed pretty much immediately. Heavy planting and dim lighting can reduce this; obviously the fewer eggs found the better, and keeping the adult fish well-fed will naturally reduce the time the spend searching. Snails (except one large apple snail – more of that later) should not be kept in the tank, as these will also eat eggs.

When left as a floating plant, Indian fern (Ceratopteris), forms thickets with roots extending down to the bottom of the tank. Far better for fry cover than when planted.

Hiding places for young fish in the aquarium

Long term breeding set ups do their absolute best when a tank is full of places to hide; specifically crevices that larger fish can barely see into, let alone enter. Naturally the precise nature of the hiding place will vary from species to species. Some rockwork will be required for cave spawners, but for egg scatterers or plant-spawners, a typical tank should be full of plants: thick pillows of Java moss, and larger clumps of Java fern, covering the lower levels, with floating cushions of Hornwort, Ceratopteris or Najas filling the middle and top levels. Of course any dense planting will do; alternatively large volumes of floating or sunken spawning mops, will also work, though plants are preferable as they host huge colonies of tiny infusoria on which hungry fry can graze. You may have noticed that all of these are non-rooted and will work in a plain bottomed tank; the plants/mops can be carefully removed in order to inspect the offspring, and prevent large feedings of Artemia or microworm from getting trapped in the substrate. Of course, any fish with specific spawning behaviour involving digging, caves, shells etc will require an appropriate substrate.

Hornwort (left) and Java moss (right) form thick pillows, floating and sunken respectively. As Java moss has low light requirements, it is quite at home below diffused light from floating plants.

Another way of proving refuge for fry is with a porous tank separator; the holes must be large enough for fry to swim through, but not adults. Care must be taken not to allow adult fish to get through – many fish, particularly egg scattering species, will waste no time in jumping over and eating anything they can catch. Best still to keep the tank well planted, both sides of the divide.

Feeding fish and fry

This is really important. Many fish will happily eat their offspring, and the object of the long term spawning technique is to persuade/prevent them from doing this. As in the wild, if there is an easy meal on offer, individuals typically won’t expend the energy chasing a more difficult one. So if there is a continual supply of slow moving, delicious and nutritious live foods, most fish will simply not bother chasing their fry. Herein lies the challenge – to be able to provide the required quantities of live food without polluting the tank water.

Regular feedings of newly hatched Artemia are essential. They are loved by most fish, and an excellent food; but being so small they can fit in the mouths of adults and fry alike. If a large cloud is released into the tank, all fish will have access to food. Care must be taken with light sources to keep the shrimp distributed throught the tank, and not gathered in one area. Overfeeding is actually a good idea in this case – something rarely said in fish keeping circles. After several hours any uneaten shrimp will fall to the bottom and die. This is why a single large apple snail / mystery snail and a bare bottomed tank are important. As any uneaten shrimp die, the apple snail will clear up, keeping the tank clean, and the water fresh.

Other live foods are also very much worth feeding in this kind of set up, but should not be seen as a substitute for brine shrimp nauplii

• When possible, keeping a population of living Daphnia alongside the fish also provides a continual food source for adult and juvenile fish – smaller fry will not be able to eat them, but the daphnia will survive indefinitely until eaten, and will reproduce to some extent.
• Another good food is grindal worm. Invariably these come in a range of sizes and some will be small enough for fry to eat. These will sink, so great for bottom dwelling species, but they will be eaten by apple snails, even when still alive. Again a plain tank bottom is best here. Microworm are too small for adult fish, but can be added as an additional food for fry.
• Mosquito rafts (floating eggs) can be collected and fed in such a set up. The newly emerged mosquito larvae are tiny, and remain at the surface. Great for surface dwelling species.

Feeding standard flake or other dry foods, whilst still possible is not ideal, as many fish might find their fry a preferable meal…

Sucess with this fish breeding method? What can go wrong?

Raising fish this way is really very easy, and requires little intervention from the aquarist beyond regular feeding, assuming the correct spawning conditions (with regard water parameters) are provided. In a dimly lit, vegetation-filled tank, regularly fed baby brine shrimp, fry will almost certainly make it.

If perhaps the ideal amount of food is not offered, but there are still plenty of hiding places, or vice versa, a few fry will still most likely make it, especially in a larger tank; this is quite a forgiving method of fish breeding.

But watch out for Hydra. Hydra are a small creatures that attach themselves to a substrate and catch passing organisms. You might notice them on the front glass of the tank. Most are too small to eat fry, but in a tank regularly fed Artemia, some will do quite well, also feeding on the small shrimp. Some of these may grow to a size that they can eat fry. Commercially available treatments using Copper Sulfate or Potassium Permanganate are required to remove the infestation.